- WrocLovek | Artist-sculptor: Beata Zwolańska-Hołod
Love Conquers All
You cannot miss the St. Elisabeth Church in Wrocław. It is one of the oldest churches there and the tallest building in the Old Town area. Contrasting with its high tower, two tiny houses frame the south corner of its backyard. Connected by an arch, they resemble two children holding hands. That’s why today they are called “Jaś i Małgosia” (Hansel & Gretel).
But in the Middle Ages, this arch crowned a gate to a cemetery.
In those times, thanks to the skills and hard work of local guilds, the city was already blooming. But instead of the hard-working tradesman, the merchants, who controlled the Town Council, collected all the wealth. It led to a rebellion in 1418 when butchers and textile workers stormed the Town Hall. They beheaded the mayor, most of his advisers, and even defenestrated one who was trying to take refuge in the tower.
The new order did not last long. Unfortunately for the rebels, two years later the Roman Emperor was in town preparing his soldiers to launch a crusade against Bohemia. He got personally involved in the dispute, and his army came to defend the merchants. Most of the guild leaders were banned from town and over twenty of them executed.
The backyard of St. Elisabeth’s Church became their resting place.
Although defeated, the tradesmen believed that the “rebels” fought for truth and righteousness, and in memory of the events the masons carved a sign on the flagstone above the cemetery gate. So, if you raise your head to decipher the letters on the Hansel and Gretel arch, you could still read:
“MORS JANUA VITAE” – Death is the Gate to Life.
Much of the area was destroyed by World War II, but after the war people of Wrocław decided to restore the Old Town. And, of course, the two little houses. Today it is a lively corner of the Market Square, and “Gretel” houses the headquarters of the Society of Wrocław Enthusiasts. They promote the city, welcome visitors, sell souvenirs, and organize events and tours around the town. To no surprise, right at the entrance to their shop, you can meet a dwarf named WrocLovek. A happy and loving fellow, WrocLovek tells everybody that Wrocław is the friendliest city on earth for dwarfs and people alike. He welcomes everyone with a great smile and a golden heart held high in his hand.
And of course, the backyard behind him does not remember its grim past anymore but is swarming with enjoyment and laughter. It is a meeting place for bikers, tourists, and children searching for more of the City Dwarfs.
I walked through the passage under the arch taking pictures. Caught in the camera intent stare of a handsome biker. Was he offended by being photographed, or wanted to ask if I’d like a close-up of his oh-so-shiny vehicle?
I did not bother to check.
Moving the lens quickly sideways I caught a glimpse of a strange shape; like a kneeling cross or a martyr-like figure, decapitated and yet holding up strait. Did someone but me remembered in this place of fun the rebellion from over six hundred years ago!? I came closer and read a sign on the ground:
Dietrich Bonheoffer
Born February 4th 1906 in Wrocław
Evangelical Pastor and Theologian
Member of the German Resistance to National Socialists
Forerunner of Ecumenism, Christian Martyr
Murdered in Flossenburg Concentration Camp
This vibrant city square remembered yet another rebel!
Dietrich Bonhoeffer, one of the greatest theologians of the last century, was born in Wrocław, and I was standing in front of his memorial. His book The Cost of Discipleship became a classic, and his writings on Christianity’s role in the secular world have become widely influential.
Apart from his theological writings, Bonhoeffer was known for his opposition to the Nazi dictatorship, including condemnation of Hitler’s euthanasia program and genocidal persecution of the Jews. Arrested in 1943 by the Gestapo he was imprisoned for more than a year, and finally after being associated with the plot to Hitler’s assassination, executed by hanging. He died two weeks before the regime collapsed and the Flossenburg camp was liberated.
He died but never renounced his faith. His death was the Gate to Life!
It takes many rebels to build a city filled with so much laughter and love.
In the end, Love conquers all!